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60” Archery Recurve Bow Takedown Bow Hunting Bow and Arrow Set Adult Target Practice Competition Survival Longbow Right Hand 30-50lbs with 6pcs Fiberglass Arrows (40lbs) : Sports & Outdoors
$156.79
About this item POWERFUL TAKEDOWN RECURVE BOW AND ARROW.Recurve bow made of ergonomically designed high-elastic fiberglass limbs and bamboo laminates, Bow string made of high quality natural tire line, more delicate and durable,rounded edges and a fine finished wooden handle which suit for beginner and professional archer. EXCELLENT HUNTING BOW. The bows speed is great, have an extremely accurate shot and easy draw. The arrow fly's off very smoothly and fly absolutely blazingly fast, suitable for almost all hunter archers to practice marksmanship. It is so much fun and very relaxing, you can shoot longer without as much fatigue. ORIENTATION:For…
| Weight | 45.0 Pounds, 30.0 Pounds, 40.0 Pounds, 50.0 Pounds, 35.0 Pounds |
|---|---|
| Brand Name | TOPARCHERY |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (260) var dpAcrHasRegisteredArcLinkClickAction; P.when('A', 'cf').execute(function(A) { 4.5 out of 5 stars |
| Best Sellers Rank | #315,883 in Sports & Outdoors (See Top 100 in Sports & Outdoors) #141 in Archery Recurve Bows |
| UNSPSC Code | 49181600 (Target games and equipment) |
| ASIN | B086G7MYCZ |
| Manufacturer | TOPARCHERY |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
| Hand Orientation | Right Hand |
| Archery Draw Weight | 40 Pounds |
| Archery Draw Length | 28 Inches |
| Color | Brown, Black, Grey |
| Material Type | Fiberglass, Maple Wood, Wood |
| Item Weight | 5.85 Pounds |
| Feature | ARCHERY BOW AND ARROW SET INCLUDES.1PC Takedown Recurve Bow(with 1PC bow string),1PC Bow Stringer,1PC Finger Guard,1PC Arm Guard,1PC Arrow Rest,1PC 3 Tube Arrow Quiver,6PCS Fiberglass Arrows. |
10 reviews for 60” Archery Recurve Bow Takedown Bow Hunting Bow and Arrow Set Adult Target Practice Competition Survival Longbow Right Hand 30-50lbs with 6pcs Fiberglass Arrows (40lbs) : Sports & Outdoors
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Greg H. –
Good printer, large build volume. Good for PLA with stock setup.
I ordered this printer in April 2018. This is not my first printer, so I am familiar with 3d printing and have been at it for several years. I decided to get this printer because I heard a lot of positive things about it, and it has a large build area.Overall this printer is pretty good for the price. I would recommend it, except for one critical issue (that I am hoping is remedied). The printer that I received has a “fatal flaw” because of a bad capacitor on the motherboard. The 5v regulation on the motherboard has a high ripple. This is because Creality used the wrong type of capacitor on the most recent motherboards (v2 and v2.1). What this means: you will see the temperature reading vary from 3-5 C when you are printing, and even a bit (1-2C) when you are sitting idle. When printing under 220, the printer will still print ok, though you may see some variation in your layers due to the temperature oscillation. Another real concern is when you try to print above 230C (which is required for filaments like ABS or PETG) . My board can’t even heat over 230 C because of this capacitor issue. If you google “CR 10S temperature issue” you can learn more about this.I am attempting to get a replacement board from the seller who I bought through on Amazon. They have asked me for a video of the problem. The seller claims to be in touch with the manufacturer (Creality) so I am hopeful I’ll get a replacement. If I do get a replacement board, I will come back and update my review. I’m hoping this issue gets resolved, and I believe Creality will eventually start shipping printers with the correct capacitor, possibly in version 2.2 once that is released. My recommendation would be to double check that the issue has been resolved before buying this printer, unless you only plan on printing PLA or don’t mind the hassle of getting a replacement board and opening up the case.Apart from the above issue, the printer is very good. The quality of prints are excellent even with the stock hot end/extruder. I’ve successfully printed PLA, Flex (TPU), and TPEE. You can also do a lot of small upgrades that will make the printer work a lot better. For example: add a Capricorn tubing so you can print flexible filaments easier. You can also upgrade to a “drop in” all metal extruder like a microswiss or a genuine e3d v6 (custom mounts are required) if you want to print higher temp filaments. I also recommend getting a nice build surface, like BuildTak. I picked up a 3 pack of “Athorbot” build sheets, which is just like BuildTak, but a lot cheaper- it is working great.People have reported issues with warped glass beds. My glass bed turned out to be fine. I used a dial indicator gauge to check my bed for variation, and it was quite flat. If your bed is not flat, you can get a 6 pack of mirror tile (12×12″) for very cheap as a replacement.One other thing that I’d like to point out is around safety. I don’t recommend printing over 210 C with the stock setup. This is because the PFTE tube (bowden tube) goes all the way into the hot end, through the heat block right up to the nozzle. This design is actually really good for constraining the path of the filament, but unfortunately that has a dangerous side effect. After 210C, the PFTE tube will begin to release toxic gasses that can be harmful to pets (especially pet birds). After 240 C the stock PFTE will deform and cause you printer to jam. Capricorn tubing will allow you to print up to 300C, but you will still have toxic off gassing.If you are just printing PLA, the stock setup is great. If you want to do much more than that (PETG, ABS, Flexibles, etc.) you should consider upgrading, and will need to make sure you have a good motherboard.Update: a few weeks after I requested a replacement board, the seller was able to send me one. I’m very pleased and the issue I had is no longer a problem! Raised my review to 5 stars because everything seems to be working great now.
16 people found this helpful
Alain Price –
Great way to get back into 3d printing for retired enthusiasts.
Fantastic 3d printer for beginners. Manual was good, software install was easy, print quality is good. Also impressively quiet. For $200, it’s hard to go wrong with this printer.My only complaint is that I wish there was a warning tag to remove the shipping foam below the build plate. I almost missed it in my excitement to 3d print again.
2 people found this helpful
Amazon CustomerAmazon Customer –
Many issues in less than 6 months
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Why did you pick this product vs others?:I had this printer for less then 3 months and the touch sensor went out on it. After spending a hours with tech support and sending pictures and videos, they sent the new piece. 4 months later I tried to print a larges print but the extruder would touch the build plate in some areas near the middle but the outside area it would not touch and I would have a mess of filament before I noticed and stopped it. When I called in about that and sent pictures and video proof, they sent me a file to print to see if the print would work. It worked because the file was a small boat in the middle of the build plate where I said it would work. When I told them that I was instructed that I would need to adjust temps and leveling to make it work, but no luck. (Auto leveling does not work right on these machines.) Finally I started to have an issue where the machine would either stop mid print or would not even start the print, beep really loud, and the screen would say that the nozzle temp was to low. I checked this and the nozzle temp was between 190-200. When I sent the info in all they wanted was a video of the issue. I told them I will not be sending anymore videos and they should refund for faulty equipment. They sent me an email 24 hours later saying no because it is outside the 1 month return or exchange policy and that I needed to send them another video for proof of issue. I sent them the video and now I have to wait. I now have to start shopping for another 3d printer. I warn all potential customers to be aware of these printers. They have many issues with them. And the company does not seem to want to do the right thing to take care of this issue. I will be looking at Anycubic or Bambu Lab printers and I would suggest everyone do the same.
4 people found this helpful
Justin Vawter –
Fantastic Printer – Perfect for Beginners!
I absolutely love my Creality Ender 3! It’s been an amazing introduction to the world of 3D printing. For the price, you get a really solid, reliable machine that punches way above its weight. Setup was surprisingly straightforward—even as a beginner, I was able to get up and running pretty quickly.What I appreciate most is how much you can learn and grow with this printer. It’s easy to use right out of the box, but there’s also a great community. I’ve printed everything from functional parts to detailed models, and it consistently delivers great results.If you’re just getting started or looking for a budget-friendly but powerful 3D printer, I can’t recommend the Ender 3 enough. It’s been one of my favorite tech purchases!
2 people found this helpful
Isaiah R. –
Great printer!
This is a good printer for beginners but make sure to do some research. You will need a good computer or laptop that can handle slicing software. I thought this one hooked up to my phone but it doesn’t. But other than that I can say it’s decently fast, and comes right out the box without a problem. Make sure you put glue stick on (purple works best) and the prints come amazing. It does have a kinda small print area but it’s still bigger than an A1 mini but still smaller than A1. I will warn you I really don’t like the Creality print software I can’t really explain it though. I tried Orca and that works better but then it was telling me there is a g-code problem and so I switched back.The value of this printer is top notch. Unless you have a crazy amount of money I would recommend starting with this one. It works amazingly well with high quality prints. If you turn it off in the middle of a print it will be able to continue when you turn it on again. It is pretty loud and has some kinda light in the hot end and I would recommend turning it off at night if you keep it in your room. Also make sure to keep a door or window open because this is melting plastic and while most are harmless it is probably best if you make sure there is a way for the little fumes to get out. I highly doubt I will get cancer or anything from pla but you can’t be too careful. Also most women could probably smell the plastic melting but I can’t really but that’s probably because I lost my sense of smell 1 1/2 years ago
One person found this helpful
Spamalope –
Basic, but easy – and it “just works” – great entry printer and value
I had an idea which to prototype in the real-world, I needed a 3D printer. Based on the basic needs I had, and my beginner expertise, I chose this model. Here’s the thing about this printer – it just works. It doesn’t have every bell and whistle, but it has been extremely reliable and easy to maintain.Shortly afterwards, I decided to purchase a popular non-“bed-slinger” that has more features (enclosed, multi-color, AI, etc…) from a different company and it has been the opposite experience. I’m waiting for a replacement to arrive with that guy today and feel like the knowledge to get stuff done requires significantly more mechanical and hardware expertise than this choice.I can recommend this if you want something easy, that works, and is simple. It’s reliable and gets the job(s) done. Their resources online I have also found on point and easy to follow.
One person found this helpful
Caroline McBride –
Faster and much less finicky than the Ender 3 v2
I have used a number of 3d printers. Mostly the Ender 3 v2, but also an Elegoo Neptune 3 and a Voxlab Ender 3 clone. The Voxlab was terrible and very unreliable. The Ender 3 v2 have a huge aftermarket base but are very fussy machines. The Neptune gave me good prints but has little aftermarket support and I have recently had to replace the extruder stepper motor and have a new hot end ordered. But so far The Ender 3 V3 is printing great. It is the fasted printer I’ve had so far. Prints that would have taken 4 or 5 days on other printers are getting done in a day and a half. With the speed and auto-leveling this is quite a step up from the v2.
2 people found this helpful
SDSD –
Perfect for beginners who want more print room
I’m 100% new to 3d printing. I heard about it in like 2014, saw the prices of printers and immediately dismissed it as a “rich thing for rich people” (dropping 2-3k on a machine that made really poor looking 3d prints wasn’t feasible for a college student). I looked at it on a complete whim recently and was shocked to see printers going for this cheap with filament around $20 a roll. I really was setting sights on an Ender 3. Everyone said it’s just a great starter one to have. However I saw someone say “if you have a bit more money, just go with a CR-10). I liked a lot that had too, but ultimately didn’t see the point when the CR10s had the filament runout detection and power restart function. I haven’t tried the latter, the first I have seen work.To anyone having issues, let me explain my problems and how I solved them.Instructions not clear? Watch numerous videos on youtube on setting it up. Don’t follow one guy. See what like 3 or 4 people have to say about how to get the printer built in the first place.What should you print first? Bed alignment squares from thingiverse. That site will quickly become a favorite of yours and any of those options are great. There’s a 6 minute video on youtube that shows how you can use that test to tell if you need to lower/raise your bed and which corner needs it.Print not sticking? This was a killer for me. I nearly returned it because I couldn’t get anything to stick. So this is a tricky one. The glass surface that comes with nearly all printers is warped. Go to a hardware store and get a box of 12″x12” mirror tiles (I got 6 for like $10 at lowes). Get a bottle of 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. This clears the print surface absolutely of any oils from your hands and any debris. I got a cheap little spritz bottle, remove the glass bed, and just spray it down then wipe with a paper towel. It works great. That works for basic small scale prints. The best luck (that I’ve printed larger things with) is outright Aqua Net hair spray. I have a separate small box with a bit of padding from the printer, I remove the bed, and spray it down with 3-4 layers of Aqua Net. After it’s dry (about 5 minutes) I remove it and put it on the heating bed. That’s gotten my best results. When it’s done printing, take the heated glass bed (with print still attached) off and just set it on a cool (NOT cold) surface and it’ll come off after a good few minutes.I’ve got the bed leveled, what should I print now?Calibration cube. Make sure the X Y and Z are perfect. After that, give Benchy a try.What are my settings? I have great luck with a bed temp of 45-50 (50 typically). I set my base print temp at 210 and every other layer at 205. There are tests to see what temp your filament works best on, and all filaments aren’t equal. So take it with a grain of salt. Those are just my “I want this thing printed and I’m not in it for perfection” settings.Slight bit of stringiness? Get an exacto knife and remove it. Couple bumps and very slight uneven edge (or sharper edge)? Dollar tree sandpaper pack, you get a lot of high grits (which is what you want) and just take it off.3D printing is a fun art hobby. This is something you don’t rush. It’s easy to get into, but there’s so much to learn with nozzles, print temps, speeds, fills, supports…it’s a lot to master. It’s just complex. This printer does great work and has a huge surface that I wanted (you can get upgrade kits for the ender 3, but one to fit this size cost about as much as this and require more work).
49 people found this helpful
Dylan zamsky –
Very good few small kinks
Product is very good both the bed and nozzle heats quickly and print speed is fast. It is not the best at overhang but still decent. Easy assembly and setup but make sure to read everything or some will not not make sense. It even comes with a small spool of PLA to test it out. The noise level is relatively low easy to tune out. Took longer then I wanted to arrive but that is likely more Amazon rather then the product especially since I ordered around Christmas time. Overall highly recommend to beginners or anyone that wants a decent 3d printer without spending a fortune.
CalebCaleb –
I wanted to love this machine, but I can’t…
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Where to start? Packaging was excellent, double boxed. Assembly wasn’t to bad, although this could really benefit from better instructions. They do supply you with some basic tools for assembly, tuning, and repair. The side cutters work well for cutting your filament. Now let’s really got into this ting. First ring first, the webpage states that this has the upgraded MK10 Hotend. It does not. It still has the MK8… very disappointing… bed leveling on this machine is a nightmare…, but not the end of the world. It is easily fixed with upgrade uxcell springs, or by adding 4 small nuts between the springs and the bottom of the bed. This creates more pressure between the bed and the mounting plate, which in turn keeps the bed from becoming unlevel as quickly. I would suggest to go ahead and upgrade the Bowden tube to the Capricorn Bowden tube. The machine now comes with the spacers for the coupling on the extruded end to keep everything tight. The plastic extruder clamping mechanism is crap, after a few prints (maybe five total) it is beginning to show wear. It creates friction on the filament as it is being extruded (see attached photo). The all metal extruder is a must. The filament will not wear on the metal and cause the hole to become out of round. The more friction on the filament, the higher chance of it binding and causing the extruder to not feed. This in turn will lead to under extrusion and causing failed prints. With that being said, do yourself a favor and before you ever run your first print, check the calibration of your extruder. There are a ton of how to’s our there for this. I know it will be tempting to just jump off into printing, but doing this first will lead to more successful prints. Next up is the magnetic build plate. I love this thing, for now… I’ve only printed in PLA so far and IF your bed leveling is right and your nozzle height is correct, PLA has no problems sticking. The prints are supper easy to remove, and the finish is what you would expect, about the same as if you printed on painters tape. My MK8 (should have been MK10) hotend works well, but if it is to close to the build plate, it will clog. If this is your first printer, go ahead and buy some replacement nozzles, because you will clog one or two. Next up are the stepper motors. Everything seems to work well with them so far, my Z axis motor was binding up a little, but found a spacer on thingaverse to correct this issue and have had no problems since. The stepper motors are not supper loud, but over the course of an 8 hour print, they do get a little annoying. The motor dampers will lower the amount of noise they make, which allows this printer to become more tolerable. I am not a huge fan of the filament holder as it is placed on the top of the printer, and not off to the side. This to can cause issues with the filament binding, but so far it has not for me. I’ve got prints ready to go for filament guides as to help alleviate the strain. If it doesn’t help, I will update this review. I also found a stand-alone filament holder that can be printed from thingaverse. I do want to say that this printer also comes with a micro SD card and reader so you can load prints from your computer to the printer. When you get this thing assembled, so yourself a favor and loosen all of the bolts that hold the frame together, but do not remove them all. With the bolts loose, give it a good wiggle in all corners to insure that everything is nice and neat and not binding. I want to touch on the X and Y axis belts. These machines come with a way to tighten these belts, but it almost requires an extra pair of hands. The only way to adjust them is to loosed the tension bolts, pull on the tensioner with one hand, hold it in place, and righted the bolts back up while making sure everything is straight with the other. Prints are available from thingaverse for a better tensioner for the Ender 3/ 3 Pro. And now on to my biggest issue… there is not a boot loader built into this machine, it is recamended by the community to update firmware on these. There could be issues with the overheat safety protocols not being enabled. The updated firmware turns this on and makes this machine safer. It’s not like it will burn down, but if left unattended, could overheat and catch fire. To update the firmware you will have to buy a boot loader of some kind. The Arduino Uno is maybe $16 here on Amazon. After the overheat safety functions are turned back on, it would be safe to let this thing run over night, or for a couple days at a time. Let’s face it, who wants to birdog this thing for 48 straight hours?? In the end, I feel like this machine can be good, even great espically at its price point. But for that to happen, you will have to spend a little more money. In all with the printer included, I’ve got about $300 wrapped up in this. I strongly feel that if I would have bought a more expensive printer, I would need to do some of these upgrades anyways. If I had it to do all over agin, I would buy the Ender 3, and not the Pro. I thought the Pro was going to come with the MK10 hotend plus the benefit of the larger Y axis support, and the magnetic build plate. The Y support is nice, but on its own wasn’t worth the difference in price. This review is not meant to steer you away from this printer in anyway, but to make sure you know what your getting. I do really like it, but don’t love it yet…Update:Found out that my bed is warped between the leveling screws making a glass build plate a must if you want to print anything large, or with multiple parts. If you are going to buy this printer at the $250 range, know that you will need a glass bed, the all metal extruder setup, upgraded Bowden tube, and if you want to update the firmware so that the safety functions are turned one, you will need to buy a boot loader of some kind. An Arduino Uno will work well. So your $250 printer has turned into a $350+ printer. I would also recamend printing filament guides, upper and lower, extruder knob, new adjustable feet so you can level the whole printer, a new spool holder if you are not going to go the filament guide options… oh, and don’t forget about the stiffer bed springs. By the time you get to start printing something you want to, you now have spent almost $400 and about a month of your time trying to print “upgrades” for this printer. With that being said, the quality sucks on this printer, but with a little bit more money, patience, and the willingness to learn, this printer is capable of really nice prints. I will say this, having gone through these issues, I am still glad that I bought this printer. It has thought me things early on that I probably wouldn’t have learned about 3D printing had I bought a better printer. I really wish I could give it a 2.5 star. I don’t hate it, but I’m not sure I love it.
24 people found this helpful